![]() Stuff like the tube and FBT going are what will put it out of commission in the end.Įdit: bad connections too, though with your issue the popping could very well be a "bad connection" inside the tube itself But really the workflow from what I've seen is pretty much to test and find bad onboard components (caps or ICs mostly). In the meantime check out CRT Collective (FB group) as well as badcaps forum for more general info. The proper fix is always to diagnose and replace parts as necessary, but it helps to just do nothing for a while and not fret too much especially if you don't have the right tools to diagnose and fix things, not to mention parts to swap. Moisture levels, large temperature gradients between ambient and operating and high temperatures themselves seem to exacerbate whatever is going on as these units approach MTBF. The other person above has their air conditioning fail and suddenly his FW900 has intermittent issues. If you have a backup display I would use that and let the FW900 sit it out for a while which may end up resolving the issue after other factors change.Īs far as temperature dependence goes, these monitors are definitely sensitive to it. People commonly refer to the focus popping as a flyback issue (caps sealed inside the flyback leaking), but it could be a power component or short inside the tube. It seemed like it was temperature dependent. What do you think? Should I start making the necessary arrangements?Ĭlick to expand.I had an issue a while back like this but not as bad. But the next day, its the same shit all over again. I just need to babysit it and power cycle when the symptoms start to show up. So far it always corrects itself after the unit properly heats up (takes about 5-20 minutes) and then runs fine for hours. This behavior gets worse the longer the monitor is turned on, the symptoms are repeated faster until the whole screen starts doing that (this is where I always turn it off so I am not sure what would happen after this point). Its a been about a week now and the behavior is now more erratic where the picture also gets this slight offset jumping on various areas of the screen for a few milliseconds, each with that metallic string sound. Other than that, you mentionned having previously opened the screen to clean it, how far did you go with dismantling when you did so ? Did you touch any of the connectors or cables in the process ?ġst day morning: works for a few minutes then the picture start repeating this: gets blurry over maybe 3 seconds and then it audibly jumps back into focus doing flicking sound as if you would flick your nail over a thin metallic string. ![]() Electrolytic capacitors look in pretty good external shape BTW, I would have expected at least a few to have a retracted sleeve on the top (usually meaning it's somewhat bulging).ĭid you check the noise filter (the power outlet attached to the shielding plate) ? Do any of the 3 pins to sector power seem loose ? Is there anything wrong with the 3 cables leaving the noise filter ? Are they well attached to the filter ? Are the white and red wires well attached to the plastic 2 pins female connector ? Was that connector well plugged on the G board when you removed it ? It's an area of bare copper that was covered with solder (not too well), but it's not important as there is no connection here.Ĭan you focus on the areas I circled please ? Otherwise I don't see anything that may look suspicious. ![]() But I don't remind using another cable causing the issues you describe though.Ĭlick to expand.There's nothing wrong with the spot you indicated. ![]() ![]() It's funny, I have the same problem with 2 GDM-5410, most cables I have won't sit very well in the connector EXCEPT the cables I received with the screens. The worse you risk is a little spark if you ground a circuit with still some voltage inside. If you can take a high resolution picture of the back of the G board and post it here, I may tell you if I spot something wrong with the solders.Īnyway, don't be too scared, it is necessary to be careful especially when you aren't used to electronics and/or that kind of device but there's not much danger manipulating the internals if the screen is unplugged and you waited some time for it to discharge. Tapping the screen temporarily solving the problem is a pretty solid clue about bad contact though, the hardest part may be to locate it. There's not much else I can say, I've never encountered the specific problem you describe and I can only guess. But I don't remind using another cable causing the issues you describe though. Click to expand.It's funny, I have the same problem with 2 GDM-5410, most cables I have won't sit very well in the connector EXCEPT the cables I received with the screens. ![]()
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